Millau (pronounced "Me-oo") is a small city in industrial decline and yet, thanks to our extraordinary tour guide, Hubertus Richard, it was among the most interesting stops. Its only remaining manufacturing company is Causse, which makes some 25,000 pair a year of very fine and very expensive gloves, keeping alive this elegant craft (gants de peau) since 1892.
But, recently, Millau put itself on the map with the construction of a viaduct designed by Sir Norman Foster. Considered the highest suspension bridge in the world (343 meters from the base to the top), its 7 elegant harp-like posts create a stunning profile against the stark landscape and span the Gorge du Tarn, shaving several hours off a road trip from the north of France to Bizet on the Mediterranean coast.
It is a privately-funded project, with the agreement or projection of recouping its investment within 75 years. However, returns coming from a single toll now look like the project will be paid for in a mere 20 years. A good bet. It took exactly 3 years to construct.
These facts and many stories and philosophical musing were presented by an energetic Dutch character who moved to Millau 25 years ago and embraced the city as his own. With intense energy, reminescent of Italian director Roberto Benini, Hubertus joined our group for dinner and then my new friends -- Wendi from LA,, David from Louisville, KY and our amiable tour bus driver, Pascal -- and I continued a late-night walking tour of Millau's extensive and mysterious old town with Hubertus.
Among its interesting stories was the fact that Millau shared history, culture and language for 150 years with Catalunya, due to a marriage of a Catalunyan daughter to the Count of Millau in the 12th century, and the city coat of arms still bears the colors and images of Catalunya. Exploring the winding, deserted streets in the wee hours, hearing tales of people who lived here, died there, gave the sense of walking through history and feeling both the connection to and disconnection from the centuries of human experience.
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