Sunday, September 21, 2008

Albi, birthplace of Toulouse-Lautrec







Albi, on the banks of the Tarn, is famous for its two 13th-century landmarks: Sainte Cécile Cathedral and Palais de Berbie, which houses the largest public collection of works by hometown boy, Toulouse-Lautrec, born here in 1864. The cathedral, which has a very plain exterior, like a brick mill, is covered on all its interior walls by elaborate paintings, some of which -- like the geometric shapes in the photo -- seem remarkably modern. The architecturally-homogeneous historic center is full of half-timbered houses, cloisters, stone plazas and churches.

However, by Day 5 of the tour, and with our hotel being a disappointment, (3 stars and not worthy of 2), and a cold rain falling, I had hit a wall, overloaded with information and sight-seeing. The dinner, at Chateau du Vin (if memory serves), was odd by all estimations. The wine, which usually flowed freely, was meted out to us in small portions and the food, when it finally arrived, was a watery shrimp drink, salmon wrapped in nori on a stick and other inedibles. Clearly, the famous young chef was trying to impress us, and trying way too hard.

To further fuel my weariness, my favorite black jacket was lost. I could hear the houseboy in "Out of Africa" saying, "This jacket does not want to be with you." Indeed, it had tried to leave me the day before but a person from the restaurant where we lunched chased me down the street to return it. This time it had truly parted ways from me, and I hoped it found a good new home.

After another fairly sleepless night, we proceeded to the most fantastic town of Cord sur Ciel and a full-on last day in Toulouse.

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