Two Weeks in Madrid

It’s different when you live in a place, in contrast to visiting and being a tourist. As streets, landmarks, stores and transportation become familiar – for me, somewhere in the second week -- the place begins to lose its mystery and fascination and take on the comforting sense of familiarity.

I know how to find my flat through the maze of streets, from any direction. I know how to use the Metro to get anywhere, and smartly buy the 10-trip ticket which saves 3 euros over individual ones. I’ve visited the major tourist sites, had coffee or wine in all the famous squares and many historic tavernas. I’ve eaten my share of tortillas papas and bolillo sandwiches. I’ve shopped in small oriental-owned groceries, cheese shops, panaderias (bread stores) and druggias (where you buy shampoo). I have walked and walked, which is what you do. I have a local mobile phone with 8 people in my contact list.

I’ve been to the Prado and stood before masterpieces by Titan, El Greco, Velazques, Goya, Ribera and Bosch. I’ve even been to the movies with a local woman and her 83-year-old mother to see Woody Allen’s “Vicky, Christina, Barcelona” in Spanish, as everything is dubbed here. I will go to the Reina Sophia museum and Retiro Park (Madrid’s Central Park) before I leave.

The initial awe and luster gives way to some observations of annoyance. For example, men are not gentlemanly – no one gives up a seat on the Metro for anyone; people push past without a “perdon”. Questions are answered courteously enough, but no one offers additional or better information that, you later discover, could have saved a lot of time and aggravation.
Even the sound of the accordion, which delighted me my first night, upon hearing it from the sidewalk below, has become commonplace; along with the violin and flute and baritone singers which make music in the streets or plazas at all hours.

Madrid is a big, busy, dirty, noisy city, and the most late-night in Europe, with dinner commonly eaten after 10 p.m. Its habitants are remarkably friendly and helpful once you strike up a conversation or are introduced by a mutual acquaintance. Its old parts, where I have stayed, are full of narrow winding cobblestone streets, pedestrian streets inlaid with quotes in bronze from poets and statesmen, beautiful residential buildings with wrought-iron balconies, and impressive monumental buildings.

It is a place teeming with human activity that shuts down mid-day for the civilized tradition of a large meal and siesta. It is a city that has grown and sprawled in the post-Franco years, swelled with campesinos, immigrants and ex-pats, and now complains of the downside of being a melting pot.

I am pleased to have explored so thoroughly although, indeed, there is always much more. But, for now, I feel satisfied with my knowing Madrid and having been warmly received by a number of interesting Madrileños, mostly transplants.

The peace and quiet of Santa Fe will pose a real contrast to Madrid. No doubt, for a week or two I will experience a heightened sense of curiosity and appreciation that resides specifically in newness. I will see with fresh eyes. And then, as routine slowly erodes the edge of adventure, idealized notions of another thrilling locale will draw me toward my next escapade, where the unknown becomes known, in the inevitable cycles of Life.

More Packing & Traveling Tips

Your clothing will need to be modified (from previous entry) according to season. For example, if warmer weather, I suggest sandals and bathing suit (if appropriate) instead of turtle neck, and jacket instead of overcoat. If in the thick of winter, I might suggest an additional polar fleece, gloves and a hat.

Unlike dressing from home, where you may not want to be seen in the same outfit all the time, no one will know how many days you’ve worn essentially the same outfit. As long as it’s clean (and most everything I listed can be washed in the bathroom sink and dried overnight), you’ll feel good, and grateful you’re not schlepping extra stuff.

The lighter you can travel, the easier it is to get around and enjoy the trip. As travel guru Peter Greenwald says, “when it comes to the airlines, there are only two types of luggage: carry-on and lost.”

Along the way you may buy a scarf at a local market, a piece of jewelry from a craftsman, a sweater because it’s cold, etc. Try to keep your purchases for self and others light and small. By having the foldable tote bag, you can always bring back souvenirs or extras in that and carry it on along with stuffing your messenger bag; then ship through your main carry-on wheeled luggage (expanded the 2-inches, if that’s an option).

You can also mail back any purchases, but I personally avoid buying stuff overseas because now, with the dollar being so valueless, you can buy almost any comparable thing in the states for less.

Digital photos can be your most precious gifts and memories. Get a large memory card so you don’t have to worry about downloading at a cybercafé to make room on the card.

Do not bring a laptop (unless absolutely necessary) as cybercafés are almost everywhere and easy to use for checking email and staying in touch.

Your US cell phone will NOT work overseas unless it is tri-band or quad-band and specifically “unlocked” for a SIMMS card, which you can buy at local news stands and tobacconists. As far as I know, T-Mobile and AT&T are the only services with both U.S. service with international capacity. ADD an international package to your phone service BEFORE you go and be sure to turn off wireless access or you'll be charged a fortune in roaming downloads.

There are services online by which you can rent or buy an international phone, shipped to your home, and take it with you overseas. Most have toll-free numbers your family and friends can use to call you from the U.S., and plans for your charges to call the states and elsewhere. You will be given an international phone number. I found this method confusing to use and the mobile service sketchy. I would love to hear about other solutions!

Keep you passport, credit cards and cash in a safe place, and always know exactly where they are. I used to use a money belt and still, sometimes, use an around-the-neck cache, but depending on the place (Western Europe), I now just use my purse, with my wallet, journal and digital camera inside, and carry it diagonally across my chest, always zipped up. I try to leave my passport in a hotel safe or well hidden in a vacation rental.

My Eagle Creek purse comes with a side-net for carrying a water bottle, which I find indispensible.

Avoid fanny packs as they scream “tourist”.

Be aware of your surroundings. Be neither naive or paranoid. Stay organized, travel light and enjoy it all!

Two weeks, One Carry-On: What to Pack

I was asked: “How do you travel to Europe for two weeks with one carry-on bag?” Here’s how I did it:

Use the largest carry-on permitted (I believe it is 24-inches). I used Eagle Creek Hovercraft, but any wheeled luggage will do. Attach Messenger bag (with purse inside that can lie flat diagonally across front of your body when carried by itself for sightseeing and daily use) to the wheeled bag’s handle and zip thru airports and cities as needed. This luggage can unzip to provide an extra 2-inches of loft for returning with purchases but, if you do that, it will have to be shipped-through, not carried on.

* = wear on airline

Two pair pants:
• Black Chico’s Traveler pants (light-weight, drape nicely, can wad up; never wrinkle) – bring black Danskin tights to wear underneath for warmth.* The only downside to these and many similar travel pants is they have no pockets. How can clothing companies manufacture “travel clothes” without pockets? Sheer idiocy.
• Black jeans (simply hip, everyone wears them in Europe)

Shirts:
• Black shelf-bra camisole (Chico’s Traveler)*
• Black long-sleeve V-neck pull-over (Chico’s Traveler)
• light wool turtle-neck pullover (lavender-colored)
• Long-sleeved big shirt, button-down, with black background and many colors in a pattern (to wear over pants and goes with any lighter shirt)*

Outerwear:
• Silk sweater, button-down, long enough to cover big shirt, has hood (olive-sage green)*
• Overcoat (a lightweight black leather, mid-calf); TravelSmith has some great rain-proof or rain-resistant overcoats*

Shoes: Dansko clogs (any excellent walking shoe will work)*

Accessories:
• wide fashion belt (woven black leather with large silver & gold buckle) to spruce up and compliment all outfits as needed
• Pashmina wool/cashmere scarf in golds & greens to match all outfits (doubles as a shawl)*
• Wristwatch, one pair of gold small-loop earrings, and the 2 rings and gold pendant I wear all the time*
• Folding umbrella

Underwear:
• 5 pair cotton panties (wear one pair)*
• 4 pair socks, 1 Danskin black tights (wear one pair socks)*
• 1 black bra (smooth cup, very comfortable)*
• Long T-shirt for sleep shirt

Toiletries:
• Nail clippers, emery board, blush, toothbrush, throat lozenges, brush picks (like floss), small flashlight, Band-aids
• All liquids must fit into a clear 1-quart Zip-Lock bag, less than 4 oz each:
Leave-in hair conditioner
Liquid make-up, mascara
Small tube toothpaste
Lipstick/gloss
Body lotion
Eye cream
Cologne Splash
Clear nail polish
Packets of hand sanitizer
(You can always buy shampoo and/or soap wherever you go if needed)

Messenger Bag & Shoulder Purse (both Eagle Creek) with purse placed within larger bag
In Purse:
Hairbrush
Wallet
Passport & tickets
Itinerary
Pill case (Advil)
Lip gloss
Business cards
Sunglasses*
Regular Glasses
Digital Camera
Cell Phone (International)
Address Book

In Messenger Bag:
Travel Guides
Magazines
Journal & Pens
Book (paperback) to read
Foldable nylon tote bag
Snacks (energy bars, mints, etc.) For more tips, see next blog entry